Pain à l’Ancienne

by Janice on October 20, 2009



Bread Baker’s Apprentice Challenge Pain à l’Ancienne is a challenging bread for some people.  Specifically me.  I like to eat bread that comes from wet dough (crispy, crunchy, airy, and chewy), but I’m not so good at handling the sticky wet stuff.  So I approached this bread as though it needed kid gloves.  And it did.  But apparently I bought the Target kid gloves and it prefers the Bloomingdale’s version.  All kidding aside, in order to make this bread turn out the way I want it, I will need a lot more practice with wet dough.  It turned out okay, but we all know how I feel about just okay bread.  I think I’ve made myself clear on that.



As you can plainly see, I’m not so good at transferring wet dough to the baking sheet.  You know how a cat can become 15 pounds of over-cooked spaghetti when you try to pick it up?  Not a single ounce of stiffness or support?  That’s kind of what this dough is like.  Pick up the ends and the middle sags and stretches to infinity, like a liquid slinky.  And all the while, you’re trying like mad to touch the dough oh-so-gently, so as not to deflate the coveted trapped gas bubbles.  Because if you squish any of those gas bubbles, your bread will not have the giant airy holes that bakers stay up at night praying for.

If not for all that drama, this would be a simple-to-make, fascinating, and incredibly complex-tasting bread.  The ingredients are just water, yeast, salt and flour.  Ice-cold water, in fact.  Which probably breaks every rule you’ve ever heard regarding bread baking, but that little difference is what makes the bread taste so complex.  Peter Reinhart devotes an entire paragraph to the explanation of this delayed-fermentation process, and why it makes the dough so unique.  Most of you don’t love me enough to sit through all that here.  But if you have any interest in what makes such basic ingredients taste so nutty and sweet, I encourage you to buy the book.

In the final result, my bread was not as airy and filled with giant holes as I would like.  The flavor was better than I could have imagined, though, so it’s likely I will try again, and again.  I don’t think this is a skill that’s going to happen overnight, while the dough sits in the refrigerator developing that great flavor.  (The dark brown loaves had the best flavor of all.)  And some people think this is the easiest bread in the book.  So I encourage you to try it, and then leave me comments with all your tips.  I can really use the help!


{ 9 comments… read them below or add one }

Twitter: misterrios
October 20, 2009 at 2:00 pm

Twitter: @misterrios

Guilty as charged! I remember tweeting you that the bread is the easiest in the book.

I think your loaves came out awesome! The darker ones are better, but even the crumb looks good.

I like this bread so much partly because you sort of do it and forget about it. Some tips, though. Make sure your hands are very floured any time you handle the dough, and make sure to use extra flour if you need to. The dough has such high hydration that it’s really okay. Last, I usually shape this bread into boules (again, floured hands), as I soon grew tired of the baguette shape, and it’s just faster. And, yes, the darker the better.

Danielle October 20, 2009 at 2:19 pm

Your bread looks lovely, holes or no! I had the same disappointment with my Ciabatta (small holes) but I’m excited to do it again. Perhaps a peel or the back of a tray might have helped minimize the sagging when transferring the baguettes to the baking sheet?

Mags October 21, 2009 at 7:13 am

I think we just need more practice at working with this type of dough Janice. At least you didn’t have to resort to making pizza like I did…lol.

Great job!

Janice October 21, 2009 at 9:57 am

Yes, Daniel, I do seem to recall that you thought this dough was easy! I think I would like boules better (how fun is that to say?) since these reminded me of twigs . . . got it for next time, floured hands!

Danielle, using my peel is a great idea. Thanks!

Yes, Mags, I loved your pizza post. Read it before I made this bread and thought, at least I know what to do if it drives me too crazy!

Hélène October 21, 2009 at 1:49 pm

Turned out really nice. Can’t wait to make this bread. I think I’ll make boules and pizza with the dough.

Janice October 21, 2009 at 4:01 pm

Thanks, Hélène! Looking forward to your post on it.

Oggi October 26, 2009 at 10:54 am

I love the color and crumb of the “twigs”.

Like Daniel I thought this is the easiest recipe to make so far; beginner’s luck maybe?:-)

Cindy October 27, 2009 at 1:35 pm

I agree, this recipe is worth making again and again! Eventually we will perfect it. Your dark loaves look amazing!

Janice October 31, 2009 at 8:24 pm

Oggi, I am too jealous! And, yes, Cindy, practice will make perfect, I’m sure.

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